It’s a fact that there are amazing go-to leftover dishes all over this world. I think that’s because they’re based on food made at home with deep love, and because so many things really are even better the next day. Of course the real beauty of this is the opportunity to clean out the fridge and rummage through the pantry. All that said, the root of such a meal must be truly stellar, and great beans certainly fall into that category, especially when they lead to Enfrijoladas, Mexico’s national dish for fantastic leftovers.
Like many a favorite, claims to the origins of enfrijoladas are many and varied, from all points of the compass down there. While discerning that is nigh on impossible, what we can say is that the dish is very old. To reinforce that point, we need only to take a quick look at Oaxacan cuisine.
Oaxaca is down south a mite, west of the state of Chiapas and south of Puebla state. This area remains a bastion of original Mexican culture, with roughly 50% of the indigenous population there non-Spanish speakers. The geography and climate have allowed pre-Columbian culture to remain relatively healthy, which is a godsend to those striving to better grasp Mexico prior to the arrival of the Spaniards – Recent archeological studies indicate that the first inhabitants arrived over 10,000 years ago.
That antiquity is certainly reflected in the Oaxacan diet, where corn, beans, chiles, chocolate, game, and yes, insects, are staples to this day, with relatively little European influence found therein. Hundreds of mole variants come from here, as do rightfully famous versions of enfrijoladas. Made simply with black beans and potent chiles on lightly fried, fresh corn tortillas, This is a delicious and stunningly complex experience for such a simple dish – And it’s a safe bet they’ve been made this way for a long, long time.
Regardless of origin, the real beauty of making enfrijoladas is that winging it is par for the course. It’s a dish intended to use whatever you find that seems promising to you – So explore, take a risk or three, and see what happens. It’s a safe bet you’ll rarely make the same thing twice, and that’s good, (and of course, if you do strike on a mix that really bowls you over, write it down so you can do it again.)
So, naturally, there’s the bean question. When this posts I know that a bunch of y’all are going to think, ‘I’ve heard of those, but I thought they were supposed to be made with ____ bean.’ You’re not wrong, but the real key to great enfrijoladas is this – You can and should make them with any bean you have. That is, in fact, the great joy of the dish. If they’re really good beans, like Rancho Gordo or other reputable heirloom stuff, they’ll be stunning. I cannot encourage you enough to try a bunch of different beans in this pursuit. Yes, down in Oaxaca, black beans generally rule, but everywhere in Mexico, they grow and eat far more varieties than that.
Rancho Gordo is the best way I know to try top shelf heirloom beans – In fact, the ones you’ll see me use herein are a French variety, Mogette de Vendée, that I got from them. I overcooked them for my original intent, but rather than freak out, we froze them and bided our time – When the thought of enfrijoladas came up, we went to the freezer and were off to the races – That’s how great leftovers work, gang.
The heartbeat of enfrijoladas is the sauce and the tortillas, of course. If ever there was a time to make fresh corn tortillas, this would be it, but don’t let that stop you from enjoying the dish – As you’ll see in our pictures, we had store bought stuff that needed to get used, so that’s what we did – It’s all good in the ‘hood.
Your sauce may be nothing more than beans and chiles with some bean broth or stock to thin things out, and if so, it’ll be wonderful – It never hurts to start as a purist, if for no other reason than to fully grasp why this dish is so ubiquitous down south. Again though, this is all about exploring pantry and fridge and using what needs to be used. You’ll see below that our version had quite a bit in the mix – Either end of that spectrum and everything in between is encouraged.
As for filling, nothing more than great cheese is needed, preferably Mexican – Manchego would be a great filling cheese, as would Queso Blanco or Queso Oaxaca, (and Cotija or Queso Fresco would be great for topping). That said, here too the Leftover Rule is in full force – So use what needs to go. If you’ve got proteins, fine, if not, that’s fine too.
Toppings are also up for grabs. Certainly salsa or pico de gallo will go well, as will avocado, crema (Mexican sour cream), cilantro, shredded cabbage, citrus, more diced veggies, maybe a quick pickle of something – Whatever you have that needs to get used.
When preparing the sauce, you may simply add beans and some broth or stock to a pan, mash them to your liking, add some chiles, and call it good, because rustic is very good indeed. If you want or need to add more stuff, then you’ll want to get a blender involved. Either way, this is not a difficult or time consuming dish to make, which is another big reason it’s so popular.
2-3 Cups of any cooked Bean, hopefully with some broth, (if not, chicken or veggie stock is fine)
9-12 Corn tortillas
Fresh, dried, or ground Chiles
Shredded Cheese for filling and, if desired, topping
Salsa or Pico de Gallo
Crema (or sour cream)
Leftover meat or poultry, if desired
Avocado oil for frying
If using fresh chiles, stem, seed, and fine dice.
Prepare salsa, pico, and other toppings as desired.
If using dried chiles, bring a small sauce pan of water to the boil and then remove from heat. Add however many chiles you desire and allow them to steep for 20-30 minutes until softened. Remove skins, tops, and seeds, and then mince.
In a large skillet over medium heat, add beans and mash by hand to a rough but even paste.
Add enough broth or stock to the beans to achieve the consistency of stew or a thick pasta sauce.
Add chiles to the beans and stir to incorporate.
When the mix is heated through, reduce heat to warm.
In a second skillet over medium high heat, add a tablespoon of avocado oil and heat through.
Fry tortillas just enough to heat them through, but remain flexible.
To serve, add a generous swipe of bean sauce to a warm plate.
grab a tortilla, slather it with a thin layer of beans, and add cheese and any other fillings, then roll it up and place it seam side down on the plate. Repeat to desired serving size, then add a generous spoon or two of bean sauce to the tops of the rolled tortillas.
Urban’s Deluxe Enfrijoladas – Again, this is what I had on hand that needed to get used – It’s a guideline, not a rule, so have fun and use what you’ve got.
For the Bean Sauce –
3-4 Cups leftover beans
Bean Broth or Stock
9-12 Corn Tortillas
1+ Chiles of your choice, (I used 3 Serrano’s that needed to go.)
1/2 medium Onion
3-4 cloves fresh Garlic
1 Tablespoon Apple Cider Vinegar
1 Tablespoon dried Guajillo Chile
1/2 teaspoon fine ground Salt
Stem, core and halve veggies, then arrange on a baking sheet.
Place on an upper middle rack in an oven on broil and cook until the skins blister.
Remove from heat and allow to cool enough to handle.
Wrap tortillas in metal foil and toss them into the hot oven to warm up (shouldn’t need any heat after roasting the veggies in there – You just want to warm them a little to encourage the sauce to stick during assembly.)
Add beans, roasted veggies, and vinegar to a blender vessel with a half cup of bean broth or stock. Process into a smooth sauce, adding more liquid as needed, to achieve the consistency of a thick soup or pasta sauce.
Transfer the sauce to a skillet over medium heat.
When the sauce is heated through, add guajillo chile and salt, and stir to incorporate. You may want to add more broth, stock, or seasoning to strike a balance you like.
Turn the heat down to low.
For the filling –
Use any leftover meat, poultry, or what have you, if you wish.
2 Cups of melting cheese
Dice up proteins and add it to a skillet over medium heat with a little stock or broth to moisturize and allow that to heat through.
Shred melting cheese.
For the toppings – Here again, use what you’ve got that needs to go – We went with,
A quick pickle of sweet peppers, chiles, onion, cilantro (All veggies fine diced, in 3/4 Cup cider vinegar, 1/4 cup water, pinch of salt, three finger pinch of Mexican oregano.)
Shredded lettuce with sliced radish
Crumbled Queso Cotija
Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
For the Big Show –
Preheat oven to 300° F and place a rack in the middle position.
Lightly rub a 9” x 11” baking dish with avocado oil.
Set up an assembly area where you can have your bean sauce and fillings side by side with your baking dish.
Spread a generous layer of the bean sauce evenly across the baking dish.
Grab a tortilla and either dunk one side into the bean sauce, or use a spoon to do the same while you hold it – Whichever works easier for you.
Add a nice even layer of sauce to the tortilla, then add fillings.
Roll the tortilla up and place it seam side down in the baking pan.
Repeat until you’ve filled the pan.
Add any and all remaining bean sauce to the tops of the tortillas.
You can add more stuff there if you like – Tomato, onion, what have you.
Bake at 300° F for 30 minutes.
Remove from oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
BTW, none of mine survived contact with the enemy, which is as it should be…