We roast our own coffee at home, as recently described herein. This morning, when M was handling brewing duties, the smell of that freshly roasted and ground coffee was intoxicating. I noted hints of sweet things, like cocoa and roasted nuts, and right then and there a tart made with coffee, chocolate, and hazelnuts popped into mind.
As I started to compose the recipe, a couple of things came to mind. The first was the best way to assure that those amazing coffee attributes made it into the finished product. That’s when I figured that steeping the ground coffee in cream would work to maintain the subtler notes that you might lose, were you to just use brewed coffee. I was right; the coffee aroma and taste that resulted was absolutely heavenly.
For the chocolate, a ganache seemed to make sense; it’s been around since the 18th century, though it’s arguable whether it was the French or the Swiss who first came up with the idea. Ganache is an incredibly versatile thing, made by heating cream, pouring it over chopped chocolate, and allowing it some time to steep and warm through. The blend is gently whisked until smooth; extracts, liqueur, or spices can be added as well. The addition of butter imparts a shine and silky smooth texture to the finished ganache. The ratio of chocolate to cream is infinitely variable, imparting a wide range of finished densities. Here, I used what generally comes out to about 2:1 chocolate to cream by weight, which yields a proper density to fill a tart, make truffles, or use as a layer in a cake. A 1:1 ratio yields a much lighter product suitable for glazing. Cool a ganache and whisk it fairly briskly, and you add enough air to lighten it notably, resulting in an excellent frosting. Work slowly and steadily when incorporating the chocolate and cream, and you’ll find this to be a fairly anxiety free method. You’ll note that I don’t call for refrigerating this tart; you can certainly do so, but know that a chilled ganache becomes rather hard. You won’t lose too much flavor, but it will be quite the brick in consistency.
I also wanted this to be a treat that celebrated the more savory aspects of chocolate and coffee, as opposed to being cloyingly sweet; the entire tart recipe has slightly over a half cup of sugar in it. The rest of the sweet notes come through the coffee and dark chocolate, and the overall impression is a very well tempered treat. The caramel sauce contributes a highly controllable degree of sweetness; you can use none, a little, or a lot as your tastes desire.
The tart crust is the only baking you need to do, so it’s really pretty simple to make. I’d go so far as to say that if you’ve never explored making ganache before this will be a fun intro for you. I made this with fresh, local cream and butter; I’d recommend you do the same.
This is truly amazing stuff, incredibly smooth, complex, and powerful. It’s also wickedly decadent, not the kind of thing you just have laying around the shanty all the time. Or maybe you do. Slice it thin and savor every bite.
Mocha Hazelnut Tart with Caramel Drizzle
For the Crust –
1 Cup All Purpose Flour
1/2 Cup Powdered Sugar
4 Tablespoons Unsalted Butter
1 Large Egg
1/4 Cup Dark Cocoa Powder
Have all ingredients at or close to room temperature.
In a mixing bowl, add sugar and butter; whisk until well combined and creamy.
Add the egg, and whisk until thoroughly blended.
Add dry ingredients and fully incorporate.
Form dough into a ball, then flatten to a roughly 5″ disk.
Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 350° F.
Sandwich the dough disk between layers of parchment or waxed paper, and roll it out to about 1/8″ thick, sized for a tart pan with a 3/4″ to 1″ lip.
Transfer crust to tart pan and press gently to fit. Trim any excess dough flush with the edge of the pan.
With a fork, evenly pierce the dough all the way through to the bottom of the pan, across the entire bottom of the tart.
Bake until tart looks somewhat dry and pulls away slightly from the edge of the pan, about 15 minutes.
Remove and allow to cool completely.
For the Ganache –
1 1/2 Cups Heavy Cream
10 Ounces Dark Chocolate, (64% to 72% Cacao is best)
4 Tablespoons unsalted Butter
1/2 Cup freshly ground Coffee Beans
1/2 Cup Hazelnuts
2 Tablespoons Bakers Sugar
If you have a burr bean grinder, grind coffee beans on the coarsest setting. If you use a whirly blade grinder, pulse the beans to a rough grind and that’ll work. If, gods forbid, you have neither, carefully rough chop beans with a santoku or chefs knife.
Preheat oven to 350° F.
If you’ve bought shelled and skinned hazelnuts, place them on a dry baking sheet and roast them until lightly browned, about 12-15 minutes.
Remove from oven and set aside to cool. Once cooled enough to handle, carefully rough chop them and set aside.
If you have hazelnuts with the skins still on, (Which, by the way, are far cheaper than the former option), here’s the best way to completely remove those.
For every cup of hazelnuts, bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a medium sauce pan.
Add 3 tablespoons of baking soda and stir; note that the mixture will foam quite a bit.
Add hazelnuts and boil for about 3 minutes; don’t be concerned when the water turns quite black, it’s par for the course with this method.
Fill a mixing bowl 3/4 full of ice water.
Use a slotted spoon to remove a test nut and plunge it into the ice water. Gently rub the nut to see if the skin comes off easily; if not, let the nuts boil for another couple of minutes, then try again. Once you’re getting an easy peel, transfer all nuts to the ice water and peel away.
Wrap nuts in paper towels and dry thoroughly.
Roast and rough chop nuts as per above.
Have butter at room temperature.
In a sauce pan over medium heat, bring cream to a simmer.
Add ground coffee beans, stir well to incorporate, then remove from heat.
Cover the pan tightly and allow the cream and coffee blend to steep for 30 minutes.
Run cream blend through a double mesh strainer, then return the steeped cream to the sauce pan and discard the ground coffee, (layered cheese cloth will work if you don’t have a strainer).
Place sauce pan back over medium heat.
In a measuring cup, add 2 teaspoons of hot water to the sugar, stir well to dissolve, then add to the coffee cream, and bring the mixture to a simmer.
Rough chop chocolate, then add to a mixing bowl.
Carefully pour hot cream mixture over the chocolate, then allow to steep for 5 minutes.
With a whisk, gently combine cream and chocolate, (going too fast and hard will cause the chocolate to seize – take your time and feel out the proper pace).
When the mixture is about halfway incorporated, start adding the butter a tablespoon at a time; allow each batch of butter to fully incorporate before adding more. Continue whisking until ganache is smooth and glossy.
Pour ganache into tart crust; smooth the top with spatula or pastry knife.
Top with chopped hazelnuts and dust very lightly with sea salt.
Let sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours before serving.
For the Caramel Drizzle –
1 Cup Bakers Sugar
6 Tablespoons unsalted Butter
1/2 Cup heavy Cream
1/2 teaspoon Vanilla Extract
1/2 teaspoon Sea Salt
In a sauce pan over medium-low heat, combine sugar with 1/4 cup water. Stir steadily until sugar dissolves.
Increase heat to medium and boil without stirring, occasionally swirling the pan to aid even cooking. Continue until syrup is a deep golden amber, about 7–8 minutes.
Reduce heat to low; add the butter a tablespoon at a time and whisk to incorporate – Note that mixture will bubble vigorously, so be careful.
Slowly stir in cream, whisking steadily.
Add vanilla and salt.
Whisk until the caramel is smooth and creamy.
Remove from heat and let cool for 10 minutes.
Pour into a glass jar or small bowl.
Sauce will store for a week, refrigerated in an airtight glass container. Warm slightly before drizzling if stored.
Cut a nice slice of tart, drizzle a few lines of caramel over the top, and enjoy. You can make this a day ahead; the flavors will be fully developed, maybe even better than day one. One of my staff at the cafe commented after her first bite, “I’ve just seen God.” Now that’s a testament…